One way of determining the weight of an unknown yarn is to use the wrapping method.
Wrap the yarn around a large needle or a ruler. Make sure the yarn lies flat. Push the yarn together so there are no gaps between wraps. Smooth it out so it is neither too loose nor too tight. Measure the number of wraps per inch (2.5 cm). For better accuracy, measure the wraps at the centre of your yarn sample.
Recycle your old Winter sweatshirts into useful Spring gardening gloves. It’s super fast and easy, no pattern required!
First grab an old sweatshirt.
Turn it inside out and insert your hand into a sleeve. Stretch out your fingers and pin at the deepest and highest points of your hand shape. You can also use the bottom edge of your sweatshirt to make your gloves. I plan to make 3 pairs from one small sweatshirt. I just started with the sleeves.
Take out your hand and mark your glove shape with a marker/pen using your pins as guides.
Sew along your pattern line.
Trim.
On to glove #2. I used my already made glove to make a copy by tracing around my trimmed seams and sewing a bit inside my line. You can do the pin & marker thing again if you want to though.
Turn the gloves right side out and marvel at your awesome free gloves!
These really took only 10 minutes and that included stopping to take pictures. Can’t wait to try them out this weekend in the garden.
Reproduced from http://latelyreconstructed.wordpress.com
I spend a lot of time dispensing sewing and dressmaking tips so I thought I’d collate a few into a list to share… here goes
More tips coming soon!
Many sewers avoid the tension dials on their machines like the plague, certain they’ll only make matters worse if they make adjustments. In fact, there’s nothing very mysterious about setting and adjusting thread tensions on your sewing machine, whatever its make and model. What’s potentially more confusing is that many apparently tension-related problems are caused by factors other than badly adjusted tension dials. Let’s look closely at how to identify and correct “tension” problems, both with and without touching the tension settings.
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Tension devices and proper threading |
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| Click to Enlarge You can’t get proper tension without correct threading. All machines have basically the four tension devices shown here- thread guides tension discs, tension regulator for upper thread, and bobbin-case spring for bobbin thread- which ensure that the same amount of thread flows simultaneously from the needle and the bobbin, producing a symmetrical stitch. |
Meet your tension tools
In order to form a row of stitches that looks the same on both sides of the fabric, the same amount of thread needs to flow from the spool and the bobbin simultaneously. This is accomplished by running the threads through various tension devices, including the thread guides, tension discs, and tension regulator on the machine head for the upper thread(s), and the bobbin-case spring for the bobbin thread (see “Tension devices and proper threading”-right). Some machines also include a small hole in the bobbin-case finger, through which to feed the bobbin thread to increase the tension for improved stitch definition when top stitching satin-stitching, and embroidering, without touching your tension settings.
The tension discs and tension regulator together are called the tension assembly. The tension discs squeeze the thread as it passes between them, while the tension regulator controls the amount of pressure on the discs. On older ma- chines there are only two tension discs, controlled by a screw or knob. On newer models there are three discs controlled by a dial or key pad on the front of the machine, which can regulate two threads at once.
In either case, the tension regulator is elementary: When adjusted to a higher number (turned clockwise), the discs move closer together, increasing the amount of pressure. Turned to a lower number (anti clockwise), the discs move apart, decreasing the pressure. Using a thicker thread without resetting the dial will increase the pressure and cause the upper thread flow to decrease, unless you’ve got a newer machine that makes automatic upper-tension adjustments. Since the bobbin tension is not self-adjusting, the lower tension may need to be adjusted manually to match.
In addition to guiding the thread along its path, each exerts a small amount of resistance on the thread, adding to the tension from the discs to achieve balanced tension. Bottom line: Always make sure all guides are threaded before stitching.
The flat bobbin-case spring exerts pressure on the thread as it comes out of the bobbin case. The amount of pressure is regulated by a small screw at the rear of the spring. Both the spring and screw are easy to locate when the machine has a separate bobbin case. When the machine has a drop-in bobbin with a built-in bobbin case, locating the tension screw can be more challenging. Both types are shown in the drawings below. In either case, to increase the resistance, use a small screwdriver to turn the screw clockwise (to a higher number) or anti clockwise (to a lower number). Turn the screw in small increments and never more than a quarter-turn between tests. This helps you keep track of how much you’re changing your settings and reduces the risk of losing this very small screw.
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| The bobbin-spring screw regulates bobbin-thread tension, whether your bobbin is a separate, drop-in unit (left) or is built into the machine (right). |
As with the tension dials, the amount of pressure will be increased when thicker threads are run under the bobbin spring. To eliminate the need to fiddle with the bobbin-case screw, many sewers (myself included) have two bobbin cases: one set for general sewing and the other for adjusting to less frequently used threads.
Recognizing balanced tensions
When the tensions are balanced, the stitched line looks good on both sides of the fabric, as shown in the top drawing at right, and the seam is at its strongest and most elastic. The easiest way to spot unbalanced tension is to look for visible knots or loops at the end of each stitch. When the bobbin thread shows on the right side, the needle tension is too tight or the bobbin thread, too loose, as shown in the middle drawing at right. When the needle thread shows on the wrong side, the needle tension is too loose or the bobbin thread, too tight, as shown in the bottom drawing at right. Of course, if you’re sewing on very thin or lightweight fabrics, both threads may show on both sides when the tension is balanced, simply because the fabric is so thin.
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| When upper and lower thread tensions are balanced, knot between top and bottom threads is hidden between fabric layers (top). When lower tension is too loose (or upper tension is too tight), knot is visible on right side (left). When upper tension is too loose (or lower tension is too tight), knot is visible on wrong side (right). |
Tensions can still need adjustment even if they’re balanced. If both tensions are too tight, the seam may pucker, or break easily when stretched (test this on the more stretchy crossgrain, with at least a 6-in. seam). If both are too loose, the seam will gap when pressed open, exposing the threads between the sections.
How to adjust tension
There are two types of tension adjustments, a basic adjustment for everyday sewing (this is what your repair person does when adjusting tension, but you can do it, too) and a temporary adjustment, necessary when you change thread types or sizes, fabrics, and stitching operations.
To make a basic adjustment, select contrasting colours of a thread in the brand, size, and fibre you use most frequently. Use one colour to fill the bobbin, with the machine set on medium speed to reduce the risk of stretching the thread. Insert a new needle in the size you use most frequently and thread the machine, using all the thread guides on the machine head, but skip threading the eye on the bobbin-case finger if you have that feature.
Set the stitch length for 2 mm (12 sts/in.) or for the length you expect to use most frequently. Set the upper-tension regulator at the middle of its range (on most machines, this is 4 or 5), and stitch a test seam on two layers of lightweight muslin, then examine the stitches. If necessary, use a magnifier to see the stitches clearly. If the tension isn’t perfect, fix it by adjusting the bobbin spring; tighter if the bobbin thread shows on the upper layer, and looser if the needle thread shows on the under layer. Make another test seam, and examine the stitches, repeating until the stitch is balanced.
Once your stitching is balanced, start a tension log in your sewing-machine manual, indicating the thread brand, size, and type, as well as the number on the upper-tension regulator that produced a balanced stitch. Then draw a picture showing the position of the bobbin screw, like the example below, to use as a reference if you need to record a change in bobbin settings for special threads.
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| To record the bobbin tension for future reference, make note of the bobbin-screw position, including reference to thread opening or open side of bobbin case, as shown. |
To make a temporary tension adjustment, select the threads for the needle and bobbin, then fill the bobbin and thread the machine. Make a test seam on the fabric that you plan to sew, examine the stitches, then see if you can find a balance using the upper-tension assembly alone.
Whenever you switch from your standard sewing thread to another thread, first thread your sewing machine and test your set up to see if you can get away with a tension-dial-only, temporary adjustment. If that doesn’t work, get out your second bobbin case, and start moving the screw in quarter-turns to loosen or tighten it, as your sample dictates. Typically, when you use a lighter-than-normal thread for both needle and bobbin, the tensions will stay balanced, even though they’re both lighter. This is often just what you need to avoid puckering lightweight fabrics, so no adjustment may be necessary. A heavier thread in top and bottom will increase both tensions, and you’ll probably need to set a lighter tension to accommodate heavier fabrics.
Don’t touch that dial!
So many things can affect the tension that it’s worthwhile to run through the following check-list in the order given before you reach for the tension regulator:
• Incorrectly threaded machine: Incorrect threading is responsible for more “tension” problems than any other factor. Did you use all thread guides? Did you thread with the presser foot down, thus keeping the thread from slipping fully between tension discs? Is thread unwinding freely from the spool, or catching on the spool’s slash? Are you using a bobbin as a spool (which can interfere with the thread flow)? Is the bobbin inserted correctly?
• Incorrectly filled bobbin: Remove any thread on the bobbin be-fore you wind on new thread. Wind the bobbin following the machine instructions, so it’s evenly wound at the proper tension. Remove any thread from the outside of the bobbin. Wind at a consistent, slow or medium speed, especially with polyester and nylon threads, to keep them from stretching; they relax in your seam, causing puckers.
• Dirty machine: Lint and thread ends lodged between the tension discs, under the throat plate, or around the bobbin case and bobbin, increase the resistance and restrict the thread flow. “Floss” between the tension discs with a lightweight, lint-free cloth, and check in the bobbin area for thread ends and lint.
• Damaged machine parts: Bent needles and bobbins, and rough or damaged surfaces on the needle eyes, thread guides, tension discs, take-up lever, throat plate, presser foot, bobbin case, and in the bobbin area can all cause problems. If you drop a metal bobbin on a hard floor, throw it away, even if it looks fine; the smallest damage can distort tension. Avoid damage to the bobbin-tension spring by cutting the thread close to the case before removing the bobbin. Raise the presser foot before removing thread from the upper tension.
• Needles, threads, and fabrics: Different thread sizes and types on top and in the bobbin can throw off basic tension settings. A needle that’s too large or small for the thread can also unbalance your stitches, because the size of the hole adds to or reduces the total top tension. If you find that you’re getting puckers on organza, chiffon, jersey, lace, or blouse-weight silks or polyesters, try changing to a straight-stitch foot and needle plate, and shorten the stitch length to 1.75 mm (15 sts/in.), before you reach for those tension dials.
Reproduced from Threads magazine
Starting the series, Women in Wool is an introduction to a lady I would regard as having been rather influential in modern knitting trends in the UK.
Despite her tender years, Laura Parkinson has quite a following. She runs a successful blog, writes for Knitting magazine and somehow finds time to be a mum too. I asked her where it all began….
As for so many of us knitters, Laura’s mum was a major influence in getting her started, teaching her to cast on and make squares at the age of five (if Laura is anything like me, she’ll still have a few of these kicking around!). As time went on though, the knitting got put aside for her teenage pursuits only to stage a comeback whilst she was at university. “I needed a hobby” she said, “and knitting seemed a natural thing to pick up again”.
Picking up where she left off Laura got herself a copy of one of my favourite magazines, Rowan, and ambitiously started making a pair of arm warmers in lace yarn with a cabled pattern, something that even many experienced knitters would shy away from. Her infectious enthusiasm soon wore off on friends and she started a London branch of the famous Stitch & Bitch knitting group. It soon snowballed into a 3000 strong membership of ‘Stitchettes’ as they are known.
As a mum and wife, Laura gradually stepped back from the group to write for Knitting magazine where the column ‘Purl About Town‘ was born. She now comments on social trends in the world of knitting so I asked her what she thought would be in season in 2013. “Garter stitch is still very much here to stay. It used to be a beginner’s stitch but it’s having a revival. Cables too are very much in, make them big and heavy!”. I asked her about the trend for more adventurous knitwear for men on the high street “Greys and vivid yellow hues are very much now for men. I am enjoying seeing pastels too”.
Read more of Laura’s blog here http://purlabout.blogspot.co.uk
Do you want to make a Valentine’s day themed hot plate holder? I’ll show you how.
Materials:
1 yard of white ric-rac
3 inches of white twill tape
1 plastic ring *optional
main fabric (enough for four hearts)
insul-bright insulated lining (enough for two hearts)
coordinating thread
sewing machine
Heart template or make your own
note: my heart hot pads are a bit on the small side, they are great for older kids, and average sized women’s hands, but if you are making this for larger (man) hands, then you may want to enlarge the template when printing. You can do this by adjusting the scale on your print settings.
Cut four pieces of fabric on fold
Cut two pieces of insul bright on fold.
Take one of your insul bright hearts, and cut it down the middle.
Now take one half heart and place it on the wrong side of one of your fabric hearts.
Fold the fabric over the insul-bright. Pin the fabric in place. Repeat with remaining half heart.
Take your two remaining fabric hearts, and sandwich your insul-bright heart between them. Right sides should face out. Pin in place.
Now we are going to quilt the heart pieces. I started with the half hearts, and started on the folded edge, sewed lines 3/4″ apart. If you are a little nervous about your fabric shifting as you quilt, you may want to stay stitch around your pot holder pieces 1/4″ away from the raw edges. This keep your pieces secure while quilting, but it make cause some puckers to form. I skipped this step.
If your sewing machine comes with a quilter’s guide attachment, it can be really helpful. I quilted the pieces 3/4″ between lines.
If you have a quilters guide then you will want to adjust it to 3/4″ from your needle position, and line it up with your previous stitching line. It will ensure that your stitching lines are relatively straight. If you don’t have one available, it really isn’t a problem. You can quilt it however you’d like: straight, crooked, zig zag, heart shaped. Quilt both half hearts, and the full heart.
When I quilted the full heart I sewed down the center of the heart first, and then worked my way out. After I finished quilting one side of the heart I turned the heart around, and quilted the other half.
Now we are going to attach the ric-rac. To do so you will start at the bottom of the heart, and the outside of the ric-rac with the raw edges of the heart. Stitch down the center of the ric-rac, and follow the contour of the heart. With my trim aligned this way, the center of the ric-rac was approximately 3/8″ from the raw edge of the heart.
The top valley of the heart can be a bit tricky, but I simply folded the ric-rac over itself when I came to the point. It’s a really small fold. You may luck out and not have to do this at all.
Next take your plastic ring, and place it in the center of your twill tape. Fold the twill tape in half, and align the raw edges of the tape with the raw edges of the heart. Stitch the twill tape down 3/8″ from raw edge.
Next take one half heart, and place it on top of the full heart. The ric-rac side of the full heart should be sandwiched in the middle. Pin in place. Repeat with second half heart.
Stitch the half hearts in place. Use a 1/2″ seam allowance to ensure that your ric-rac attachment stitching is included in the seam allowance.
Topstitch around the edges of the heart. This will help your hot pad keep it’s shape during laundering, and it gives it a more finished look.
